Gamay has a ton of acidity naturally, so the wine is a bit too sharp to drink when it’s first bottled. “Acidity in rosé can dissipate over time, so for certain wines it’s best to drink them as early as possible, within one or two years of the release.” But “others,” Reynolds notes, “actually need a bit of time to mellow out, otherwise it can feel like you’re taking a shot of lemon juice. Thirst-quenching wines like rosé, Reynolds explains, need that tart sensation. But I asked sommelier Grant Reynolds why his shop, Parcelle, is selling a vintage that’s a few years old-the same one I saw on the list at Frankies. I sometimes think of rosé as the freshest possible wine-that tart, refreshing, chuggable stuff you thirst for as temperatures rise. Perhaps this food-friendliness makes sense: Patterson tells me that Giraudon is “a chef by profession that’s actually his day job.” He makes wine from a tiny plot of organic vines on the eastern border of the Loire, “snuggled close to Beaujolais.” It has the heft to stand up to summer meals: grilled scallops, whole fish, sweet corn, lobster rolls, ripe tomato salads with creamy mozzarella. This grape gives you a rosé that’s cranberry-fresh and juicy-a touch more full in flavor than the pale, light, floral rosés of Provence. Giraudon’s rosé is 100% Gamay-a grape you might recognize, because it has made Beaujolais rightly famous. He’s preaching to the choir: When I first tasted Vincent Giraudon’s “Tentation” Rosé alongside a meal of spicy sausage that Frankies Spuntino was selling for home cooks this past spring, I found myself placing an order for several more bottles before I washed a single dish-this $18 wine is, quite simply, the only thing I want to drink this summer. Patterson, food and beverage director of the Frankies Spuntino restaurant group, tells me. “For me, it’s all you can ask for in delicious rosé: crunchy, bright red berry fruit and quenching acidity,” John B.
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